Introduction At Stadium Pen Blanks, we’re passionate about providing authentic historic and stadium relics that inspire talented artisans and pen makers to create exceptional work. Every blank we sell comes with a certificate of authenticity that guarantees its origin and legitimacy. Behind the scenes, we’ve always made deliberate choices about how we handle certifications to best support the artisans who rely on our materials. Today, we want to share the reasoning behind our past approach, a recent update we’ve made, and an exciting development that’s coming very soon. The Original Certification Approach When we began selling certified historic and stadium relics directly from our website, the certificates did not reference Stadium Pen Blanks. Instead, they listed Hardin Penworks as the certifier. This was an intentional decision designed to protect our artisan customers. We wanted to prevent their end buyers from easily discovering the source and original cost of the raw materials. For instance, seeing that a historic stadium seat relic (such as from Yankee Stadium) started as a $20 piece of wood before being transformed into a finished pen selling for $400 could create the wrong impression. Some customers may not fully appreciate the significant investment in time, skill, and experience required to turn a modest piece of historic wood into a high-value, handcrafted pen. By certifying under Hardin Penworks, we helped keep the spotlight on the artisan’s craftsmanship and the unique story of each finished piece, rather than on the raw material cost. A Recent Change: Moving to Hardin Collectibles Recently, we updated our certification process by changing the certifying name from Hardin Penworks to Hardin Collectibles. This change was a huge undertaking. We had to replace over 20,000 certificates across more than 500 different items. We view this significant cost as a meaningful investment in our customer base — you, the artisan! The goal was simple: to remove any potential confusion between our own Hardin Penworks pen-making business and the independent businesses of the artisans who purchase from us. We want each artisan’s brand and work to stand clearly on its own, without any overlap that might cause misunderstanding. This change creates cleaner boundaries and lets your creativity and expertise take center stage. What’s Coming Next: A Dedicated Hardin Collectibles Website We’re excited to announce that very soon we will launch a brand-new website dedicated solely to Hardin Collectibles. This new site will serve as a detailed resource for our artisans and customers. It will list all of our materials with much greater depth and transparency—providing richer descriptions, additional background on the history and sourcing of each relic, and more comprehensive information to help you make informed decisions and tell even better stories with your finished work. The dedicated Hardin Collectibles site will complement Stadium Pen Blanks perfectly, giving you a centralized place to explore our full inventory in greater detail while keeping the certification process clean and professional. Our Commitment to You These changes reflect our ongoing dedication to supporting the artisan community. We want to provide authentic, well-documented materials while protecting the value and integrity of the beautiful pieces you create. Whether you’re a seasoned pen maker or just beginning to explore working with historic wood, we’re here to help you succeed. The upcoming Hardin Collectibles website is another step in making that support even stronger. If you have any questions about our relics, current certifications, or the new site when it launches, please feel free to reach out. We love hearing from our customers and talking about the incredible transformations that happen when historic materials meet skilled hands. Thank you for being part of the Stadium Pen Blanks family. We look forward to continuing to serve you with quality relics and even better resources in the months ahead. — Michael HardinFounder, Stadium Pen Blanks (and Hardin Collectibles)

Welcome to the FAQ for our plastic seat blanks at StadiumPenBlanks.com! These blanks are crafted from high-density polyethylene (HDPE) recycled from stadium seats, offering a durable, eco-friendly material perfect for custom pens. They're ideal for lathe turning, but HDPE behaves differently than wood, urethane, epoxy, polyester resin and acrylic—it's softer, more prone to heat buildup, and requires sharp tools and light cuts for smooth results. Below, we've compiled expert advice based on best practices for turning recycled plastic blanks. If you have more questions, contact us! 1. What material are the plastic seat blanks made from, and how does it affect turning? Our plastic seat blanks are primarily made from HDPE (high-density polyethylene), a tough, recycled plastic sourced from stadium seating mixed with our JB Royal Original Epoxy Resin. HDPE is softer than acrylic but more resilient than wood, making it forgiving for beginners yet capable of a glossy finish. It can melt if overheated, so use light cuts and high speeds to prevent stringy chips or deformation. The banks have two different densities of material with the plastic seat and the resin making the blanks a bit more delicate to turn. Heinz Field seat material turned by Karl Henschel 2. What tools and setup do I need to turn plastic seat blanks? Lathe: A mini or full-size wood lathe works well; ensure it's stable to minimize vibrations. Turning tools: Sharp carbide-tipped pen turning tools (e.g., gouges or scrapers with polished edges) are essential—dull tools cause melting. High-speed steel (HSS) is also good but a scary sharp edges is an absolute requirement. Bushings: Use a pen-turning mandrel with the appropriate kit bushings to mount the blank securely, or a set of Turn Between Centers bushings for proper aligment. Other essentials: Progressive grits (220–1200 or higher), our Magic Juice polishing compound, CA glue for sealing, and a soft microfiber cloth for buffing. Start by squaring the blank ends with a saw or disc sander before mounting. Again, using light taps on the sander to prevent over heating the material. 3. What lathe speed should I use for turning HDPE blanks? Run your lathe at the highest comfortable speed—around 2,000–3,000 RPM for mini lathes. High speeds reduce vibrations and heat buildup, which is crucial for HDPE to avoid melting. Start slower for roughing (1,000 RPM) and ramp up for finishing. Always listen to the lathe: if it chatters, slow down slightly. Citizens Bank Park seat material turned by Karl Henschel 4. How do I avoid chipping, melting, or poor finishes when turning? Light cuts: Take shallow passes (0.005–0.015 inches per revolution for roughing, 0.002–0.005 for finishing) with minimal pressure—let the tool do the work. Sharpness first: Hone tools frequently; a polished rake face on carbide inserts glides through the plastic seat blanks smoothly. Cooling: Use compressed air or a light mist of water-based coolant to dissipate heat. Avoid oil-based lubricants, as they can cause buildup and affect the final finish. Technique: Turn light touches and high speed  to minimize chip outs. 5. What are the best sanding, sealing, and polishing techniques for a glossy finish? Turning our plastic seat blanks—especially the v2 versions with their chaotic shredded material embeds—requires a bit of patience and very sharp tools. Due to the recycled nature of the reisn and plastic seat material, you may encounter a few pin-hole air pockets that didn't fully compress during casting. These are normal and easy to address: clear them with compressed air before filling with thin CA glue, allowing it to wick in and cure fully. After turning to shape, sand progressively: Start wet sanding at now lower than 220 grit on the lathe (running), then 320, 400, 600 and up to at least 800 grit or up to 2000 grit if desired to smooth the surface further—this helps reveal the vibrant colors and textures of the stadium seat material. Post-sanding, our v2 blanks often develop fine "plastic hairs" (tiny raised fibers from the recycled shreds). To tame these, we recommend a "double CA" sealing process before final polishing: First CA layer (3–5 thin coats): After wet sanding, thoroughly dry the blank andapply thin coats of medium or thin CA glue, allowing each to cure according to your CA brand instructions. Rotate the blank on the lathe between coats to ensure even coverage. This step embeds and flattens the plastic hairs without buildup. Wetsanding: We recommend wet sanding, the blank, not to at least 800 grit. Second CA layer (5–8 thin/medium coats): Once hairs are tamed, apply additional thin or medium coats for a robust sealant and high-gloss base. Cure fully between coats, then lightly sand with 600–800 grit if needed for smoothness. Lincoln Financial Field seat material paired with our Steampunk Watch part blanks were turned by Karl Henschel For that ultimate mirror-like shine on sealed plastics, nothing beats our own Magic Juice polishing compound—available right here at StadiumPenBlanks.com! Magic Juice (MJ) is water-based and specially formulated for HDPE, recycled plastics, and CA-sealed surfaces (it's also great for resins and Craft Coat finishes). Here's how to use it: Ensure your blank is fully cured and sanded up to at least 800 grit (2000 grit for extra smoothness). We generally like to use Norton SandWet paper up to 2000 grit. Mounted on the lathe at 2400–3000 RPM. Work through the six-bottle Magic Juice set in order (Step #1 to #6): Apply a pencil-eraser-sized dab from each bottle to a soft cotton cloth or applicator. Polish with mild pressure for 20–60 seconds per step, advancing when the surface feels smoother and less gritty. Wipe clean between steps and finish with a final buff on clean cloth for a glass-like sheen—no topcoats needed! Tips: Magic Juice pairs perfectly with your double CA seal for hybrid recycled blanks like ours. Avoid excessive heat or pressure when polishing with MJ or any other polish. Additionally, avoid using it on raw wood or friction polishes. It's not freezer-friendly, so store at room temperature. Common pitfalls? Rushing steps—let CA cure properly to prevent clouding, and use light pressure on Magic Juice to avoid heat buildup. Test on a scrap blank first for confidence. This combo delivers a durable, "hair-free" finish that highlights the unique stadium heritage in every pen. Highmark Stadium seat material turned by Karl Henschel 6. How do I drill the blanks for pen kits? Drill on the lathe for precision: Mount the blank in a collet chuck or between centers, then use a sharp brad-point or parabolic bit at low speed (500–800 RPM) with steady pressure. Use a drill press with a pen vise if your lathe setup is tricky. Drill to the depth needed for the tubes for your kit . Always measure twice! 7. What safety precautions should I take when turning plastic blanks? Wear eye protection and a dust mask (plastic seat dust is generally non-toxic but messy). Secure the workpiece tightly—loose blanks can fly off at high speeds. Work in a well-ventilated area; use a dust collector for sanding and air filtration for ambient air cleanup. Keep tools sharp to minimize kickback, and never leave the lathe unattended while running. Our plastic seat blanks are stable and fume-free when turned dry, but monitor for heat. 8. What are common mistakes and how can I fix them? Melting/stringy chips: Too slow speed or dull tool—sharpen and speed up. Vibrations/chatter: Unbalanced setup—true the blank ends to the tube (not the blank) and use quality bushings. Dull finish: Skipped grits or rushed sealing—always progress sequentially and let CA cure. Cracking: Over-tightening the mandrel—loosen slightly for expansion. For pin-holes or hairs, follow our double CA method. Practice on scrap blanks; our HDPE is forgiving. If issues persist, share photos with our community for tailored advice! Happy turning! These blanks capture the spirit of the game—turn one into your next heirloom pen. For more inspiration, check our gallery or contact us. Grab your Magic Juice today and elevate your finishes

At Stadium Pen Blanks, we offer pre-tubed label cast blanks designed to fit a variety of pen kits. To help you choose the right blanks for your pen turning projects, we’ve compiled a detailed guide to the tube sizes compatible with popular pen kits. Below, we’ve organized the kits by tube size and listed them alphabetically for easy reference.  Jr. Series Pen Kits (12.5mm & 10.5mm Tubes) Our Jr. Series pre-tubed blanks are compatible with both 12.5mm and 10.5mm tubes, fitting a wide range of pen kits. The following kits are compatible with these tube sizes. Note that this is not an exhaustive list, but it covers many popular options. Jr. Series Pen Kits Atrax Jr. Aaron Jr. Anthony Commander Cyclone Desire Jr. Citizen Jr. Diamond Knurl Jr. Duke Jr. Emperor Jr. Gentlemen's Jr. Gentlemen's II Jr. George Jr. Great Palace Vine Jr. Hamilton Jr. Harold Jr. Imperial Jr. Independence Jr. Lincoln Jr. Majestic Jr. Milton Jr. Monarch Jr. Morgan Jr. Retro Jr. Statesman Jr. Zeus Kojent Triton Venus Voyager Sierra Clone Pen Kits (27/64” Tubes) Our Sierra clone pre-tubed blanks are designed for kits that use 27/64” tubes. These blanks are compatible with the following kits, listed alphabetically. Sierra Clone Pen Kits Broadside Diamond Knurl Diplomat Ellipse FlatTops Virage Liberty Liberty Click Major Mesa Monarch RoundTops Sienna Sierra Elegant Beauty Sierra Grande Sierra Vista Sirocco Wall St. II Wall St. III Zepher PSI Baseball Pen Kits (3/8" Tubes) For the Penn State Industries Baseball Pen Kit, our pre-tubed blanks are designed to fit 3/8" tubes. The compatible kit is: PSI Baseball Pen Kits Baseball Pen Kit Full Size Gentleman's Series Pen Kits (37/64"& 15/32" Tubes) Our Full Size Gentleman's Series pre-tubed blanks are compatible with both 37/64" & 15/32" tubes, fitting a wide range of pen kits. The following kits are compatible with these tube sizes. Note that this is not an exhaustive list, but it covers many popular options. Full Size Gentleman's Series Pen Kits Gentleman's Emperor Harold Pharaoh Monarch Oriental Dragon Great Zeus Great Palace Vine Abraham Major Crown Imperial Lotus Nobleman Genteelness's NASA Pen Kits (10mm Tubes) The WoodTurningz NASA kits, specifically the Shuttle Rollerball or Fountain Pen Kit, use 10mm tubes. These are distinct from the Sierra clone 27/64” tubes and require our 10mm pre-tubed blanks. NASA Pen Kits Shuttle Rollerball Pen Shuttle Fountain Pen PSI Bolt Action Pen Kits (3/8" Tubes) Our 3/8" pre-tubed blanks are compatible with the following Penn State Industries Bolt Action Pen Kits, listed alphabetically. Note: Our 3/8" Bolt Action tubes are not compatible with other bolt action styles (e.g., Mini 30 Caliber, Magnum, Vertex, Bolt Action Tec-Pen, Mini Bolt Action Keychain, or Detachable Bolt Action Keychain) due to differences in length or tube size. Bolt Action Pen Kits 30 Caliber Bolt Action Pen Bald Eagle Insignia Flag Bolt Action Bolt Action Ceramic Red, White and Blue Flag Deer Hunter Bolt Action Salute The Troops Bolt Action Statue of Liberty Flag Bolt Action PSI Nautical Pen Kit (3/8" Tubes) Our 3/8" pre-tubed blanks are compatible with the following Penn State Industries Nautical Pen Kit. Nautical Pen Kit Nautical Twist Pen PSI Civil War Pen Kit (3/8" Tubes) Our 3/8" pre-tubed blanks are compatible with the following Penn State Industries Civil War Pen Kit. Civil War Pen Kit Civil War Pen We hope this guide helps you select the perfect pre-tubed blanks for your pen kits. At Stadium Pen Blanks, we’re committed to providing high-quality blanks that fit your favorite kits. If you have any questions or need assistance, feel free to reach out!